Showing posts with label Kenai River. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kenai River. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

A "brief" update...

've been writing a lot about all of the cool things I've been getting to do this summer in Alaska, but there are a couple of things that I've been wanting to post about. I just haven't had room in any of the other entries!

This may be a bit lengthy, and few (if any) pictures. Apologies in advance...

First, I wanted to discuss this "perfect storm" of events that has hit the Kenai Peninsula, which has closed the sport fishing on the rivers. Alaska, and most specifically, the Kenai Peninsula, has relied on sport fishing for local subsistence, and then tourists dollars to support it's people and the economy. Every summer probably tens of thousands, or more, flock to the Kenai for the amazing salmon and trout fishing. If you've ever seen a picture like this:

Photo credit: Alaska In Pictures: Combat Fishing

 ...it's probably been taken where I live this summer. People will stand shoulder to shoulder, and anchor boats gunwale to stern to bow for as far as the river allows to catch their trophy fish.

Over the past...10, 20, X amount of years, commercial fishing in the ocean has almost depleted the salmon stock. It's impossible for many to imagine, since they've seen MILLIONS of fish migrate upstream year after year. What many may know, but don't make the connection to, is that these fish that spawn upstream: die. As soon as the eggs are laid and fertilized, both males and females are literally exhausted and starved and die. It's a suicide mission with good intent. These fish make the trip hundreds or thousands of miles round trip from birthing grounds to ocean, and then BACK again to the same spot, years later. It's amazing to me, as it has been to many others. I'm sure there are books, articles, literature all published on this phenomenon for more reading if you're interested.

Anyway, for any angler reading this right now, or hunter for that matter, you're well aware of all the regulation surrounding taking game- whether it be fish, bird, mammal...and apparently some amphibians (in NY, maybe other places too?,) that are considered game species. They have to be a certain age, size, sex, in a certain area, during a certain time of year, etc etc etc. It can be frustrating, but I would gander that more are willing and do comply, than not.

[I hope I'm not going too off base here, this is what I've learned from the biologists here...]

Commercial fishing outfits have very few regulations like the regs that I mentioned above. They use huge nets and drag the ocean, catching anything that's unlucky enough to be in it's path. Endangered species, untargeted species, big fish, little fish...everything. And there's no being picky either, so everything they pull in: dies. This has been a sore point for many activists over the years, and I can understand why. I've seen pictures here of "the catch", it's disgusting AND, as I've discovered, completely unsustainable.

The age class of salmon that should be coming back right now, specifically king or Chinook salmon, just isn't. Major portions of the Kenai River has been closed to sport fishing, and this is the primo salmon fishing time of the year. Thousands of anglers flock here specifically to fish for these salmon, and I see parking lots full of RVs, campgrounds full of tents- and these people made the trek for nothing. I said that the other day to a guy on the refuge trail crew, and he said "Well they can always go hiking, or something else...it's not a total lossof a vacation", and while I guess that's true- there are many people who come here specifically for salmon fishing. And if you've had the trip planned for months, like my family would have, there would be major disappointment and financial loss. And those are just the tourists!

What about the people trying to make a living off of this natural phenomena? All of the hotel owners, restaurant owners, B&B owners, and mostly the fishing guides! I've heard that guides can and do make upwards of $1,000 a DAY, 6 days a week. And since the fishery has been closed since July 1st and a reopen nowhere near in sight, they are losing major dollars. Some of these people make their yearly income in just a few months, so they totally rely on the tourists to come and fish. It's devastating.

For those of you in NY, this is a lame comparison...but imagine if the Adirondack Park closed all of it's campgrounds for the summer. With nowhere to stay, the tourists wouldn't come, no business...crippling side effects.

The second part of the perfect storm, that's kind of subsided now, is the amount of water making it's way through the river system. The Kenai Peninsula apparently had record amounts of snow fall this winter season, which is still quite evident up in the mountains. In early-mid June there were quite a few nice, sunny, mild days (which was melting all of that pack), and then mild, torrential rainfall (which also melted the pack). The rivers were swollen, swift, and resembled chocolate milk. The few fish that were making it upstream from the ocean, had to combat the current and turbidity.

I didn't quite understand the scope of this problem, until I started asking questions of the biologists. I also visited the local watering hole last weekend and struck up a conversation with some locals. When they found out who I work for (US Fish & Wildlife Service), they started peppering me with questions about the fish. The USFWS often gets confused with the AK Dept of Fish & Game (ADF&G), as the names are so similar, we "do" many of the same types of things, and just to make things worse- the offices are next to each other on the strip here in town. These guys were guides, and were telling me their side. Luckily, it all stayed pretty amiable. When I retold this story to the biologists in the office, they told me to NEVER tell people where I work, especially at a bar. The natural resources are such an important part of life here, that people get very hot about it, and can/will take it out on the wrong people. I kept telling them that I was a lowly intern from NY. I had the same information that they were receiving (ADF&G makes the calls anyway, NOT FWS), and I had no perspective to commiserate with them. This is my first experience here, and I'm disappointed in the lack of fish for selfish reasons, I want to see the craziness of Combat Fishing like in the above picture!


Ok, that's enough I think. This was just such a huge part of my experience here that I had to document it. My poor field journal has gone by the wayside (as it always does...horrible journal-er), so the blog was it.

The other thing I wanted to share were my species lists! I'm getting there :) I've decided to keep track of the easiest three: birds, mammals, fish.


Mammals Birds Fish
Beaver American Dipper Chinook Salmon/King
Black Bear American Robin Dolly Varden
Caribou Arctic Tern Pacific Lamprey
Coastal Mountain Goat Bald Eagle Rainbow Trout/Steelhead
Coyote Barn Swallow Round Whitefish
Dall's Porpoise Belted Kingfisher Sockeye Salmon/Kokanee
Mink Black Oystercatcher 3 or 9-spine stickleback
Moose Black-billed Magpie
North Pacific Humpback Whale Black-capped Chickadee
Porcupine Black-legged Kittiwake
Red Squirrel Blackpoll Warbler
River Otter Bonaparte's Full
Sea Otter Boreal Chickadee
Snowshoe Hare Canada Goose
Stellar Sea Lion Common Loon
Wolverine Common Merganser
Common Raven
Commun Murre
Dark-eyed Junco
Double-crested Cormorant
Downy Woodpecker
Fox Sparrow
Glaucous-winged Gull
Gray Jay
Hermit Thrush
Northern Harrier
Northwestern Crow
Orange-crowned Warbler
Pelagic Cormorant
Pine Grosbeak
Red-necked Grebe
Sandhill Crane
Spotted Sandpiper
Steller's Jay
Tree Swallow
Trumpeter Swan
Tufted Puffin
Violet-green Swallow
White-crowned Sparrow
Wilson's Warbler
Yellow Warbler
Yellow-rumped Warbler

Saturday, June 23, 2012

X does NOT mark the spot...

This post is going to be about mammals- I feel like I've been neglecting them since I wrote about Moose-stang Sally a few weeks ago.

This week I've found several sets of tracks in amazing substrate that have to be shared.

The first was at the Funny River Weir, that I've recently written about. Apparently the Kenai Peninsula had records snow fall amounts this past winter, and because it's warming up- all of the snow pack is still melting up in the mountains and rushing down stream to where I live. The rivers are swollen, and last week they were raging. Because of this, right next to the weir, a bit of sand and silt built up, kind of making a little beach. Several days ago I went to check water levels, and noticed these tracks:

...and my mind began to spin.

I instantly thought a member of the weasel family, the Mustelids. And here's why:
  • Habitat: it's a riverine system that is totally resource rich. Large sized fish, and alot of them, travel this waterway around the clock, and will for the next 2 months. "Resource rich" if you will...
  • Secondly: let's count toes. Maybe you can't see in this picture, but there's 5 on front and 5 on back. All weasels (including fisher, marten, long-tailed/short-tailed/least weasels, otters, mink...to name some) have 5/5 toes. Other critters have the 5/5 toes as well, such as muskrat, skunks, woodchucks...but the latter 2 don't live here! And the muskrat tracks just don't fit.
Does anyone else suffer from "sensationalitis"? It's a condition I suffer: when ever I get a blurry trail cam pic, or smudgy track, or some other kind of animal sign...I pick the coolest animal it could be, then say it is so. I was convinced that this was a river otter track. It just seemed so big to me, but as always, the voice of reason told me to "think mink".
That bobby pin is exactly 5 cm long, and it was the only thing I had to use for scale. According to the little tracking book I'm using (Track Finder by Dorcas Miller), mink tracks fall below that. Otter are almost double that in length. SO, the voice of reason is correct again: mink (Mustela vison).

I took this picture of a mink, not on the Funny River, but on the Kenai River several weeks ago. They are here!

The next set of tracks I have to share are a brand spanking new find for me. Several days ago, I was out with Jim, a biology technician out of the office I'm interning at. He is currently working on his Masters degree, and is tracking the movements of fish through the Anchor River here on the peninsula. At one of the sites he had to check, we had to take an ATV back into the woods. I rode on the back rack, as we went in and we hit a low spot that had recently held alot of water. At this point, it was a nice thick, smooth mud. This is what I saw.

The beautiful overstep walk of a lynx (Lynx canadensis)!

As soon as I saw it, after the ATV tracks were made, flashes of cougar, gray wolf, bobcat, dog, lynx were flashing through my mind. In this case, I was underwhelming myself. Trying to talk myself of the edge of a big carnivore. I've NEVER come across a track like this in NY. I have had a fair experience of black bear tracks now, but this was definitely not bear.

These were my initial observations: 1) the tracks are so round, 2) no X (I'll explain this later), 3) edges of pads were blurry, not totally crisp, 4) LARGE, 5) I felt that this animal was walking, as opposed to trotting or running, and 6) no nails!

For ease of explanation, when I say "cat" I mean generally all cats domestic and otherwise. When I say "dog", I mean domestic and otherwise. I'm referring to the family.

1. So cats have round tracks, and dogs have oval tracks: generally. Of course there's the oddball out there that defies this rule, and of course the substrate (or what they're leaving tracks in) can effect this too.

2. There was no "X". When identifying a cat or dog track, an easy way to decipher the difference is by laying an X with sticks, or pencils over the track. If the sticks can lay comfortable through toe pads and around the metacarpal (big pad), then it's a dog. Cat tracks won't allow a clean passage between toes. The "X" will cut into the metacarpal pad. For more succinct information, see Cat Track Fever II.

3. Edges of the pads were blurry! Why? Because lynx have incredibly furry feet that act as snowshoes in deep snow.

Photo credit: Natural Resource Research Institute at the University of Minnesota
So if you have a pet cat, imagine what their toes look like. Very clean and if you have seen wet tracks on a hard surface, you can definitely see edges of the pads.

4. Lynx tracks are big. They are a big cat, so of course they'll have big paws to support and distribute their weight. Width can be up to 10.8cm and length 14.3cm (Mammal Tracks & Sign by Mark Elbroch). As you can see below, this is a nice sized track.

The spread between by thumb and tip of my index finger is just about 10cm, to give you a frame of reference. Can you see the "furry-ness"??

5. Gait: I've done a lot of thinking about the movements of animals for the past couple of years. Tracking, as many of you may know, is such a cool way to study wild animals, even if we can't watch them. They tell us so much about their habits, movements, and how fast they're moving. Because I'm not very well versed in tracking, I'm going to tell you how I came to the conclusion that this is an overstep walk. Walking because the tracks aren't spread way out, and the trail is wide. When animals, and even us, move fast, our strides lengthen and the width between our paws or feet narrows. Then for the overstep part- I compared to various pictures. I have nowhere NEAR enough experience being able to tell lefts, rights, rears, fronts by myself. If I had time to really study the tracks with a bit of positive reinforcement over my shoulder, I may have been able to come up with all of that. It's tough though. I'm just pleased for now that I came up with a species (and it was confirmed by Jim), and that I knew relatively how fast the animal was moving.

6. Cats generally do not show their nails when they are moving on flat ground. Their claws are retractable and therefore rarely show.

I feel like I'm rambling a little bit...so I'll conclude with the rest of my kick-ass pictures!





How's this for a cool picture? I believe those are again mink tracks, running perpendicularly to the lynx. Also, the pebbled appearance of the mud is from rain the night before. These tracks (both sets) fell since the rainfall...very, very fresh!

And that's all I got! I wish I had been able to talk more about the minutia of tracks, I'm just not there yet though. For now, I'll continue looking on the ground for all the clues left behind...and then sharing them with all of you!