The Final of The Big 5: Part 6: Moose

The final chapter of The Big 5 story from Denali National Park & Preserve, is about the moose.

The third and final day of our adventures in the park was a long one. We took the shuttle bus 92 miles into the park, to Kantishna. Our total trip time was 13 hours roundtrip, which was a long day...but totally worth it. We saw so many of Denali's critters and had great viewings of them, the day didn't seem so long.

Myself in Savage River Canyon, Mile 15 of the park road.

After we had reached Kantishna, and turned back to head 92 miles back to the entrance, everyone on the bus kind of quieted down and got comfortable for the ride back. After a few quiet minutes of bumping along the gravel road, someone yelled out "STOP!" scaring me half to death. They had spotted a moose running parallel to us up on a ridge several hundred yards away to our left. I've almost literally tripped over moose and calves outside my cabin at the wildlife refuge, so I wasn't particularly interested in fighting for window space to take faraway pictures of this running moose. But then, our driver turned to Katie and I (we were sitting right behind her), and says "I wonder why that moose is running? They usually don't run unless for good reason...". And this moose was in a flat out gallop. Not a trot, not a lope, a reaching, ground pulling run. Within seconds of her saying this, from the back of the bus we hear "Oh my God, there's a brown bear!".

Well it didn't take much thought to piece together the story. That bear was after that moose. We were just entering back into the treeline, so there were shrubby, bushy spruce, alders, and willows littering the landscape, making it difficult to keep the chase in view. We were also running a bit late, as we had had too many of these "Nat Geo" moments that day. Our driver apologized to us that we couldn't wait it out to see where they met, and also I don't know if she was ok with letting a bus of 40 people watch this dramatic scene play out. So, we moved on.

Just as we rounded the corner, the moose burst from the shrubs on our left, and we made a quick stop to let it pass. The following pictures are the only that Katie and I were able to catch.

Photo credit: Katie Boye

I actually was so enamored with this predator-prey scenario and that I didn't waste the time fussing with zoom, focus, aperture, etc etc etc...I wanted it committed to memory.

It was an intense few moments, and I'm glad we got to experience it. The bus seemed to have been split into teams, rooting for the bear or the moose. I'm not sure who I was supporting, but either way someone would have benefited!

The Big 5: Part 5: Brown bears

To catch up on Parts 1, 2, 3, and 4 click: Denali National Park & Preserve "The Big 5"!

This story is one of the brown bear. This bear is known by several names: brown, grizzly, and Kodiak, but they're all the same species, Ursus arctos. I am going to refer to them as brown bears, since that's how the rangers at Denali refer to them. Throughout our 3 day visit, we had probably 15 sightings of brown bears. Most of them looked like this:

Through a 36X zoom, this is a sow (sitting up like a person) nursing two cubs.

The majority of our sightings were like this...little blonde blips on the mountain sides, off in the tundra. Those of use with long zooms and binoculars got the views. I'm impressed with my camera, as were others on our bus. I would snap a picture like this, then pass it around to show others what we were seeing.

The third day of our trip into the park, we took a shuttle to Kantishna which is a 90+ mile round trip into the park.

Once we really got out there, we were diligently watching out the windows of the shuttle for something on the tundra. We were quickly rewarded with:

Photo credit: Katie Boye

A mother bear and her 2 cubs...relaxing in the meadow! It was absolutely an amazing sight to see.

All was quiet for the first few minutes of viewing...

Then, Thing 1 and Thing 2 got a little rowdy.

Mom rolled over in exasperation...

...and finally had enough and got up.

The cubs took that to mean it was go time, and started ripping into each other as they were wrestling. This behavior allows them to experiment with their bodies, and practice their moves for potentially later in life when defending themselves against a competing bear. And they are siblings, and I know MY sister and I did our fair share of this when we were younger!

And all of that action really got things moving...and in this case, bears **** on the tundra :)

Yet ANOTHER awesome memory and pictures to accompany from Denali National Park and Preserve. I urge everyone who is reading this entry, to add DNPP to their personal bucket list and make the trek north. It's worth it. Even if you don't see brown bear cubs wrestling, you'll get to see amazing views like this:

Eilson Visitor Center, 7/23/2012



The Big 5: Part 4: Dall Sheep

To catch up on previous "The Big 5" entries, click here!

The next "Big 5" critter I'd like to share is the Dall sheep (Ovis dalli). Dall sheep are cool. I really like domestic sheep/goats, and these guys can't be too different- they have personalities, aren't all that bright, but are typically gentle and loyal pets. I know rams can be nasty, but my experience of growing up with goats was a good one. These wild sheep are all white, the only all white sheep in fact, and their coloration is a camouflaging. They spend alot of time in the tippy-toppy parts of mountains and ridges, where the snow is found in most abundance. Dall sheep are not the same as a big-horned sheep, though it is understandable how you could confuse the two species. They are in the same genus (Ovis dalli and Ovis canadensis), which makes them practically cousins! Compare below:

A bachelor party of Dall sheep.

DNPP, Polychrome Pass

July 7/23/2012

Photo credit: Katie Boye

A male big-horned sheep and his harem.

Joshua Tree National Park, CA

August 2010

Dall sheep on left, big-horned sheep on right.

Anyway, I want to tell my favorite sighting story of the Dalls. We saw them often throughout the park, but often WAAAAAY up a slope, far away. It was hard to see them, most of the pictures I took were blurry, sasquatch-style pictures. We did have 3 amazing opportunities though to get close (on the shuttle bus) and observe them. The final up-close sighting is the one I'm going to share.

We were driving along the park road, which is some spots is pretty precarious. In the picture below is Polychrome Pass, not where we saw the sheep, but in a very similar spot.

It's very steep on either side, BARELY allowing for one shuttle bus to squeeze by, forget 2! There's alot of creeping around corners, and quick stops to allow the bus that has the right-of-way to pass.

We came around a bend, and saw several buses lined up, although we couldn't quite see what was happening yet. A few more bends, and we were upon the scene.

There were actually 3 buses stopped here. Just to the right of the frame, 2 buses were pulling away. They belonged to the Kantishna Experience lodge, which is private property that was encircled by DNPP when it expanded. They have their own buses, and apparently are supposed to go by the Park's rules when it comes to wildlife.

Our driver was very upset that 2 buses were stopped there for so long. I guess they have a rule of just a few minutes, as to not agitate the animals. We sat waiting for them (they had the right-of-way) for several minutes, and when we pulled up, they had been sitting here already for who knows how long.

The bus shown in the picture is a shuttle bus that had been waiting their turn to pull through. You can see guests on the bus taking pictures, so their bus driver stopped for a moment to allow pictures to be taken.

Then our driver was again frustrated because the driver of that shuttle, wedged herself between the sheep and the opposite side of the road. Apparently drivers are instructed to never restrict an animals movements. If they want to cross the road, they should have the option, which means drivers are to either stop short, or pull ahead for picture taking.

As soon as that shuttle moved through, and we had a turn to go through, 2 sheep bolted to the other side. Apparently the grass IS greener....ha...ha.

We then crept up, to pass through because we were running behind schedule and had actually already had another awesome viewing opportunity (the first picture of sheep is it) that day.

And these sheep were not having it.

They bolted in front of the (slowly) moving bus, and stood there! They actually confronted the bus, and stood their ground. We sat like this for maybe 30 seconds, and then I guess they deemed themselves the victors, and moved back to the right side of the road with the rest of the sheep.

It was so interesting to watch! I've seen male ungulates confront one another before. And actually the best example I can think of are my pet goats. They would play for dominance on this little dog house we gave them to climb on. And these Dalls looked just like that. Firm stance, raised heads, flared nostrils, and alert expressions.

Meanwhile, the others were content with ruminating and chewing their cud.

As we pulled away (this is looking towards the back of the bus) the little herd decided to again cross the road and head back up the slope on the opposite side.

It was a great experience that last probably all of 10 minutes, from when we rounded that first corner and saw the bus-jam, til this moment of pulling away. Dall sheep are not the most glamorous of The Big 5 to many people, but they are an integral part of Denali National Park & Preserve. They are, in fact, the reason WHY the land was set aside and a national park was created. To home and give refuge to the diminishing populations of Dall sheep.



The Big 5: Part 3: Caribou

Please also see: The Big 5: Parts 1 & 2

The next critter that Katie and I got to see in Denali National Park & Preserve was the caribou (Rangifer tarandus).

This ungulate artiodactylid (even-toed hoofed mammal), is an Alaskan icon. Many people are familiar with the vast migrations that the caribou make annually in search of breeding grounds and food sources, and because of their "fame" that I'd learned about before, I really wanted to see one.

We saw probably at least 10 caribou, but this was the animal that we didn't get the best views of. They were often solitary or in pairs way off in the distance, or even up on a rocky ridge between mountains. We did see a lone calf running by itself, and a couple of bulls laying together in a glacial wash basin. I'll share all of the best shots I have, but keep in mind these are all different sightings.

7/21/2012

7/21/2012

Can you pick out the caribou in this picture? Don't ask me how someone spotted it...

Look at the top of the mountain, just to the left of center in the broad U. I've zoomed in below.

7/21/2012

What is he doing up there? I don't understand- the "cost" of energy it must have taken to get up there must have been more than the benefit of food! It look like there's nothing edible...but then again, they often sustain for months on reindeer lichen, and nothing else.

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Did you know reindeer and caribou are the same animal?

A reindeer is just the domestic version of the species.

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7/23/2012

Two doe caribou hanging out. Even though they have antlers, they are females. Antlers are a secondary sexual characteristic, that often shows on caribou. White-tailed deer have been known, though less frequently, to show antlers on the does. Wild turkey hens can sometimes have a beard. I don't know what this means for their reproductive abilities, I'd wager with caribou it's not quite the same situation. A fish biologist and avid big-game trophy hunter here told me that the caribou use their antlers to push snow out of the way to find lichens. Interesting thought.

Can I take a moment to share the definitions of antlers vs. horns?

Some people here (and some that I think should know better) use the words interchangeably.

This is not a HUGE faux pas, but I like to be as succinct as possible.

Antlers	Horns
-Characteristic of the family Cervidae (deer, moose, elk, caribou)	-Characteristic of the family Bovidae (cows, sheep, goats, antelope, musk oxen)
-Often present only in males (with the exception of caribou)	-Present in both males and often the females
-Grown annually, shed annually, temporary	-Continuously growing, never shed, permanent
-Branched	-Unbranched

Animal Diversity Web

7/23/2012

A nice big bull- these two pictures are of the same animal. This was actually the closest we got to a caribou, probably around 150 yards or half the length of a football field. It's amazing how fast their antlers grow in such a short amount of time...just to be shed off and grown again the next season.

The final picture I'll leave you with is of the young caribou, born this year, seemingly on it's own.

We didn't see an adult anywhere, nor could we see a predator.

Apparently baby caribou are a favorite of brown bears and wolves...no big surprise there!

7/21/2012

I hope he or she made it back to mom...

The Big 5: Part 2: Gray Wolf

Read here for The Big 5: Part 1!

Denali National Park & Preserve
7/21/2012

The first day into DNPP, our hopes were high for wildlife sightings. Half the people you hear from are boasting of amazing views, close encounters (on the bus) with wildlife, and perfect photo opportunities of both. Then the other half of the stories tell you to not get your hopes up, because the wildlife is truly wild, and the weather can change quickly, effecting it all. But, ever the optimists we are, we entered that first day (7/21/12) on the shuttle bus with eyes peeled.

Photo credit: Katie Boye

Within MINUTES, and I'm not exaggerating, we were treated with our first of The Big 5, a gray wolf (Canis lupus). The following are the only two pictures I was able to get...

Visitors to DNPP are only allowed to drive their personal on-road vehicles into the park for the first 15 miles of the park road. There is only one road in and out, so it's nice to not have the congestion of hundreds of visitors clogging the road after that 15 mile mark. Many people assume that most of the sightings will be seen further out in the park, especially once you hit 2,000 feet above sea level or so. This is where the treeline ends, and the tundra begins, making for wide open landscapes. For the majority of our wildlife sightings, that's where they were.

THIS sighting however, was seen within the first 10 miles of the park, under treeline, and at about 7:45am. First thing in the morning, on our first day in the park- DNPP delivered.

The wolf was on the left side of the road as we came around a corner, and a passenger yelled out "STOP!" as per our driver's direction. We slowed to a stop, and the wolf disappeared to the left up into the brush. We could still see him/her moving through the alders, pacing the bus, and then he/she decided to cross the road, RIGHT in front of us!

Luckily, Katie and I were in the second row of seats back, so we had a great view. My pictures were taken in haste, not allowing the camera to focus very well, so they aren't the best...but they're better than nothing!

After walking, yes walking, across the road, it disappeared down the bank on the other side. Allowing us probably a good minute and a half viewing.

There are 70 wolves within the limits of DNPP, broken up into about 9 packs. DNPP contains over 6 million acres, so you do the math. We were VERY lucky to have seen this gray wolf. Were there more out of sight?

Photo credit: Katie Boye

I've been reassured by people who know what they're talking about that this IS a wolf. I was being skeptical and thinking maybe a coyote at first. But, this Canid fits the wolf bill. Below I've pulled a comparison graphic to illustrate some of the physical characteristics between the two species. I'm reassured by the above wolves large feet, long legs, and rounded ears. Also, take my word for it, it had a thick muzzle, rather than that dainty snout of the coyote.

Photo credit: Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife

My last thoughts about this wolf concern it's weight. Although we saw this guy or gal mid-July, Alaska's autumn is just around the corner. The fall flowers are starting to bloom, and the days are getting shorter. The dark now comes at 10:30 at night! This still seems late by "lower 48" standards, but I was really enjoying the long days actually...it's weird to see darkness come.

I'm thinking that this wolf doesn't have long before winter hits. Last summer, a professor of mine visited DNPP in August and was SNOWED OUT. He and his wife couldn't enter the park due to all of the snow on the ground. The road is dirt/gravel, and are NOT plowed during the off-season. And those shuttle buses made me a little nervous on dry and clear roads, I can only imagine what it would be like on slick, snowy roads.

I hope despite it's thin frame, this wolf can compete with others throughout the long winter season and make it out on the other side alive. Perhaps this is a young male? Off on his own, thin, lanky...perhaps looking for a pack and territory to call his own? I will never know.

The Big 5: Part 1

Over the weekend of July 21-23, my friend Katie and I visited Denali National Park & Preserve. It was a soul-soothing, spiritual, amazing experience. I've been to several National Parks (Acadia in Maine, Glacier in Montana, Rocky Mountain in Colorado among others), but none have really struck me quite like Denali.

As I mentioned in my previous posting, the National Parks Service Rangers and Staff are amazing. Informative, friendly, and truly have the Park's well-being and visitor safety first in mind.

Many visitors go to Denali with The Big 5 in mind: gray wolf (Canis lupus), moose (Alces alces), caribou (Rangifer tarandus), Dall sheep (Ovis dalli), and the almighty brown bear (Ursus arctos). I'm going to use the term "brown bear" even though they are technically the same as grizzly and Kodiak bears, but in DNPP they refer to them as brown bears.

People come to the park with hopes of getting a glimpse of these animals, from a bus, and getting that awesome "Nat Geo" shot.

I entered the park with hopes of seeing all 5, but also with hopes of seeing a wolverine (Gulo gulo), any of the ground squirrels: hoary marmot (Marmota caligata) or arctic ground squirrel (Spermophilus parryii), red fox (Vulpes vulpes), and especially a collared pika (Ochotona collaris). So I had a "Big 10"!

Of the true Big 5, I saw all of them. It was almost too easy, I was so surprised, and maybe we were extremely lucky. Actually, I KNOW we were lucky to see at least one of them

Of the second set of my wish list, I saw the arctic ground squirrels and a red fox. Squirrels fall right after black bear and tie with porcupine for me. I think they're A) adorable, and B) incredibly resourceful and SASSY!

I'm going to keep this entry brief, and follow up in subsequent entries with the story behind each sighting.


First sighting:

A gray wolf.

I'll be honest though, I'm really skeptical about this. When I first saw it, I didn't form an opinion. Everyone was saying wolf, even our bus driver. Then Katie turned to me and asked me for confirmation...and I said:

"Um...I don't know, it looks like a coyote to me. BUT, I have never seen a gray wolf before."

Really profound, right? I went along with wolf, because I didn't want to be the jerk on the bus, ruining everyone's hopes and dreams in this amazing National Park that's known for wolves with saying it's a (common pest to some) coyote.

I later described it to a ranger, and she accurately described back to me a gray wolf, and our recollections matched. Long legged, bushy tail, coloration...etc. I don't know though, I STILL feel like some would call this a 'yote. For my touristy sake, I'll call it a wolf. But I'm interested to hear opinions.

I borrowed this from JVN's blog (Backyard Beasts), and I realize different time of year and state, BUT...that's what a proper gray wolf should look like :)

Photo credit: John Van Niel

Thick, barrel-chested, gorgeous coat, gray/black/white coloring...


BTW, for what it's worth, this animal looked like a coyote to me too:

Red wolf (Canis lupus) at Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge, North Carolina

And this is DEFINITELY a red wolf.

Second sighting:

A caribou!

Third sighting:

Brown bear!

Fourth sighting:

Dall sheep!

A moose! (This is an AWESOME story...stay tuned :) )

And that's The Big 5!

Are you impressed? I was, by how close we got to the animals. Keep in mind I took all of these pictures from the shuttle bus. Yes, I have a 36X zoom...but they also came in close.

And I'll share a few pics of my other favorite mammals that I got to see:

Arctic ground squirrel :) How can you not smile at this little guy?

And finally....

A red fox....dressed in a really interesting outfit. I'm doing a bit of poking around and gently harrassing some Alaskan trappers and officials about color phases of the red fox here. More on this later!

After my last depressing entry, I wanted to share fun, happy stories of animals I got to see in the park. A final picture I'll leave you with is probably the most sought after "thing" at DNPP, and the most rarely seen.

Mount McKinley, or Denali.

20,328 feet: tallest peak in North America

I feel honored to have seen it and actually several times. This mountain will get it's own entry eventually as well. Talk about awe-inspiring.